Superlatives are simply inadequate to describe the beauty of Cumberland Island. This 17.5-mile long island is separated from the mainland by salt and fresh marshes, mud flats and tidal creeks. Its many natural treasures include dune fields and a maritime forest, as well as an abundance of shore birds, including egrets, herons, ibis, oyster catchers, and wood storks. Dense palmetto stands and magnificent live oak trees provide a lush habitat for deer, rabbits, armadillos, raccoons, wild turkeys, and feral hogs. The horses here aren't really "wild" however; as they are descended from those brought to the island by previous residents, they are considered "feral."

Sea turtles have for centuries laid their eggs in the powder-soft sand here, and eagles and Peregrine falcons are among the twice-yearly visitors. Fish, ducks, fiddler crabs, and oysters also call this island home. More recently this was a nearly-exclusive retreat for the Carnegie family, some of whose mansions still stand. One of these, Greyfield Inn, was built in 1900 as a wedding gift for one of Lucy and Thomas Carnegie's daughters, Margaret. Her daughter opened the house to the public as an inn in 1962, a decade before the National Park Service finally acquired most of the island.

There are no bridges to Cumberland; access is by ferry only - a public one runs from St. Marys to the Park and a private one runs from Fernandina Beach directly to Greyfield; reservations are required, even on the public ferry, as only 300 visitors are allowed in the Park per day, including campers.

The ruins of the original Carnegie mansion, Dungeness, are near the island's southern end. The original structure dates back to James Oglethorpe, founder of the Georgia colony, who built two forts on the island along with a hunting lodge. The property had a few other owners before it was acquired by Thomas Carnegie in 1881. In 1885 he completed the mansion that survived until 1959, when much of it burned. Nearby is the Tabby House, the oldest house on the island, built around 1800. Over the years the Carnegies built houses for their children - the Cottage, Greyfield House and Plum Orchard Plantation.

Be sure to visit the First African Baptist Church at the northern end of the island. The current structure only dates back to 1937, although the original was built in 1893 and was also used as a schoolhouse. John Kennedy Jr. was married here in 1996 and held his reception at Greyfield. After a short time on Cumberland Island, you'll understand why he chose it. Where else could he be so confident of not being disturbed? That sense of lovely isolation is Cumberland's greatest asset. You'll love it here, too.